Along with the humid conditions of a tropical area, the air was alive with Pengerupukan energy — a Bali day of silence. Nothing could prepare me for this after seeing the incredible pictures of Bali on Pengerupukan, vivid golf courses, yoga retreats, and tranquil rice paddies. Bali on ‘Pengerupukan was an eye-opening experience, an inviting tourist hub as well a captivating chaos that felt ethereal. Our family was in awe of the spectacular creations of the Ogoh-ogoh at Tampaksiring, the steam rising from the intricately crafted heads set the rhythm for our venturous experience of Bali. This capture Tusita was not any interim feature. It was an Ogoh-ogoh parade that flaunted local craftsmanship and tremendous attention alongside the zeal of surrounding talented youngsters. The scooters and vehicles that gently operated on the streets, faced an unbelievable rage tide for the tourists, staring in wonder. Wau can use the term ‘tourists’ Blos who mingle ed with the locals dressed in sensational clothes. Their distinct call captivated the well-known Bandung Shabda nashid from Bali that was the center of attraction across the island. The center of attraction were multi styles demonic Ogoh ogoh figures modelled out of bamboo, Styrofoam and paper. The designs were something way beyond mere decorations. Each of these representations had a touch of evil and were skilfully handcrafted. The demons that these figurines represented must have surely cowered at their sight.
Tampaksiring’s works were legendary. It featured an unbelievably gigantic and muscular ape like figure with skin shading pale golden and powerful heavily encrusted golden armor. He domineered gold themed smaller and much darker brownish statue that appears to be angry. “Sentana Luhur” gained respectable praise by being able to showcase authentic power and control over sculpting. “Ogoh Ogoh” also had an ability to mesmerize people. It featured a feminine sculpture of deep brown color with skin tone almost blackish grey. Accompanied by red tongue, it displayed countless limbs and vanquishing crown of devil like protrusions. In addition to all the calamitous attributes, the flowing mane red and black made “Ogoh Ogoh” attire splendid. There remained a battle statue which the sculpture was depicting and served as proof to fight the unleashed energised forces – violent dark forces needed to be faced.
Then, I saw it: ‘Tulak Tunggul’. It was an Ogoh-ogoh that stood out among the impressive creations of Tampaksiring. The Sentana Luhur youth community had poured their heart and soul into this piece. Looking at the figure, I was struck by the human-like quality of the face. Unlike the surrounding monstrous forms, it had a strikingly gentle face. The mouth was slightly open and the tongue, which seemed to be resting on the upper lip, gave the face an unsettling yet contemplative look. The headdress was topped by stacks, ornate and detailed, which made Tulak Tunggul seem more powerful.
I could understand why people spoke of herculean anatomy and large muscular arms and hands, because they truly were gold adorned. Their golden wrist and ear jewelry crowned them with a regal sense of power. This figure was not merely a monster; it was sovereign, a guardian, a ‘repeller of darkness’ as Tulak Tunggul suggested. Incredibly precise models of musculature were astonishing to look at. Sculpted with such complexity, the beast seemed poised to spring into life. An air of strangeness clung to the way the hand rested upon the leg, given the imposing figure. Deep, ancient wisdom was contained within the static eyes.
With the mobility of ‘Tulak Tunggul’, the demeanor of the crowd changed. There was awe and respect for the intricacy of the carving and also for, the craftsmanship involved in it. It was not, however, a mere monster. It was an utterly powerful being, a defender reserved for the onslaught of negativity. The gamelan beat became louder and the crowd’s cheers grew stronger too, raising an energy wave into the streets. I took photo after photo, hoping to record every detail and every nuance of these creations.
The Tulak Tunggul and the striking figures started to dance along with the crowd. While I was caught in performing photography, the excitement of the crowd increased. During the procession, the crowd started to become more ‘in the moment’ and forget the concept of restraint. It felt like and oddly beautiful mix of panic and thrill. Along with the fusion of emotions came untamed bursts of energy too. It felt brilliant.
Ogoh-ogoh came about and worked their magic while shouting their primal roars paired with the relentless rhythm of the gamelan. Everything felt to the eyes like chaos and dancing as the excitement spread. They set ablaze bonfires alongside the roads till they reached the intersection, summoning flames to rise from the bonfire while capturing the gaze of every on-looker. The bonfires brought a whole new slaughter of glow to the place. With this, the dominion of Ogoh- ogoh was brought to and consumed my amazing flames of fire. All negativity is purged symbolically. My inner self was released. It was an exorcism before plunging into the stillness of Nyepi.
I felt as if I was being burned. The heat from the flames washed over me, and the odor of burning paper and bamboo filled the area. There was chaos, but over the crowd devastation was replaced by anticipation and calm awaiting silence.
Compared to the streets of Nyepi, crickets were muted and the noise of gamelan was deafening. The streets were devoid of life. Vertical integration, as a Tantric concept, brings a focus onto the more subtle features of a person. Contrast this with the stillness of ecclectic Pengerupukan and fervent energy of Nyepi. We have witnessed something utterly magical, a glimpse into Balinese spirituality. Mesmerizing and terrifying. Sentana Luhur youth triumphed, reminding us the balance of chaos and balance. The Ogoh-ogoh photos I and my family will honor forever capture the beauty of sending Belog Sculpture’s artistic prowess showcasing Sentana Luhur talents.
Tampaksiring is a place with breathtaking and serene beauty, brimming with ancient temples such as Pura Gunung Kawi and Pura Tirtha Empul, which go back to the island’s history long before the reigns of its kingdoms – an era usually marked by deeper temple exploration. Beyond the lively chaos of Pengerupukan, the area preserves pure balinesque breathtaking beauty. My mother always talks about how Pura Gunung Kawi’s beauty is gifted with the majestic candi carved into cliffs and the green valleys. She once told me how timeless these places are would make a person feel hushed with the reverence as they walk among the magnificent buildings.
Bound to the island’s rich history, Pura Tirtha Empul is magnificent with its purification pools and sacred springs. It does not fail to offer a glimpse into Balinese rituals revolving water. I still picture in my mind vividly cleansing rituals performed so fast with deep expression seeking for divinity while bathing in the balinese holy water. Breathtaking is how deep the spiritual traditions run along with the bali state. Feeling the spring’s gentle flow along with incense was the peace every human craves.
Both the temples and the Ogoh-ogoh festival represent a blend of history, spirituality, and artistry in Tampaksiring. They represent the two sides of Bali, the vibrant commotion which is ritualistic, and the calming tranquility inherent in sacred sites. The pictures which I took capturing these temples, alongside the Ogoh-Ogoh, showcase the spirit of Tampaksiring – a place where the past breathes life into traditions, and deep-seated spirituality infuses the surroundings. It’s a region that will always cherish and remember.”